The placket is a piece of fabric added onto a garment, where buttons and buttonholes (or any closing system) are put in so the garment can be closed.

The seam allowance is the excess fabric that is added all around avery pattern piece, and that lies on the other side of the seams (inside the garment) once they are made. In our patterns, the seam allowance is 1cm/0.4” or 1,5cm/0.6” wide in most…

The selvage is the edge of a fabric. It is where the weft threads turn around when the fabric is woven. Most of the time on a woven fabric, the selvage is different from the rest of it: we can see different threads there, indicated…

Fabric flap that protects shoulder on a trench-coat or a raincoat. Historically, the shoulder flap (like raglan sleeves) was invented on military garments to offer soldiers better protection from the rain.

A tailored jacket must have tailored sleeves (made of two separate parts) and a notched lapel collar (or “tailored collar”), meaning a collar with a lapel and a gorge line.

Making a visible decorative seam. This seam can also help to reinforce a join when it is made a few millimeters from an existing seam.

Cutting fabric again after a seam has been sewn, for example, in an angle, to thin the layers of fabrics that have piled up and to obtain a neater finish.

We recommend understitching to ensure a better finish when we want no seam to be visible on the right side of the garment, where the facings are sewn to the other pieces (notched lapel collar, armholes on a sleeveless top, neckline etc). The understitch is…

Weaving is one of the methods used to create fabric (among others such as knitting for example). Woven fabrics are made of interlaced threads (warp and weft). No matter what kind of fibers are used, there are three main basic weaves: – plain weave: weft…

A specific type of sewing machine that cuts, sews and finishes the edges (whipstitch) of fabric at the same time.